Restaurant Triumvirate Makes its Mark in Park Slope
Park Slope restauranteur triumvirate—John Bush, Dale Talde, and Dave Massoni—love feeding people. Creating their artful, often playful, and sometimes even irreverent dishes makes them feel like they’ve contributed to the community, something larger than themselves. I sat down with the three of them at TALDE, one of their three restaurants in Park Slope, to discuss cultural identity, the Park Slope food scene and their plans for the future.
The trio’s Park Slope food foray began in 2010 when John Bush and David Missoni fell in love with the building on the corner of Fifteenth Street and Seventh Avenue and opened Thistle Hill Tavern. They describe the restaurant as an American tavern pub with strong English and Irish influences. Then in January of 2012 they opened Talde, an Asian-American restaurant and bar. Most recently in August of 2012, they opened Pork Slope, an Americana-inspired barbecue joint on Fifth Avenue.
It may seem like their diverse restaurants reflect incongruous tastes or perhaps even indecision, but there’s actually a prominent theme: Crave-worthy foods that playfully embrace the immigrant culture of Brooklyn.
And then there’s the question of why Park Slope—a neighborhood that isn’t exactly venerated over other areas of NYC for its hip factor. Its reputation tends more toward the mother-centric and stroller-friendly. Yet the trio is well aware of Park Slope’s stereotype and described it as “community-oriented, homey, and family-friendly.” In addition, they elaborated on the comfort and familiarity that living in such a personable, down-to-earth neighborhood brings: “You know the guy who works at the bodega, the pet store, and you feel a part of a community,” explained John Bush, who lives in an apartment above Pork Slope.
However, Park Slope’s earnest and cozy charm was not the only reason behind opening their mini-restaurant empire in this region of Brooklyn. It also came down to business basics. They put it simply: “Business is based on supply and demand.” They alluded to the neighborhood’s reputation of having a less-than.stellar restaurant scene, and because they live here or nearby they directly contributed to the demand. “Williamsburg is over.saturated and Park Slope was lacking,” Massoni noted.
The trio also spoke to the almost undetectable speed at which Park Slope, like the rest of Brooklyn, is changing. They reflected on its continuous transformation: “It’s not just families anymore. There are now more single people and couples—people who want to get out of the city,” they acknowledged. They also perceive Seventh Avenue to have grown into more of a hub than Fifth Avenue.
The dishes at all three of their restaurants reflect their desire to hone their own version of the American “melting pot.” Talde in particular pays tribute to the hyphenated identity of immigrants living in America, and in this case, Asian-American immigrants. A first-generation Filipino-American, Dale Talde is deeply, if not complexly, connected to both his Filipino and American roots. And his restaurant, Talde, is at its core a reflection and celebration of his own mixed cultural persona. Take the Pretzel Pork & Chive Dumplings for example. German pretzel meets the Asian dumpling in a novel recombination of cuisines that represents the ongoing exchange among ethnicities in New York in particular.
When Talde speaks about his visits to his hometown of Chicago, he indicates that his second-generation American family members are in some ways losing their connection to their Filipino roots. “I see the next generation, and they have zero connection to it,” he explains. It’s apparent that this is a conflict for Talde—an issue with which he grapples, yet ultimately accepts and interprets through his own cooking.
Bush, Talde, and Massoni are fascinated by American culture and the ways in which immigrant groups influence each other, meld together, change each other, and ultimately create something new. They believe food is one of the deepest expressions of culture and want the food they serve to showcase the many syntheses that happen in the U.S. And it does. It’s food that acknowledges the past and basks in change. It’s also comfort food—food that triggers waves of nostalgia and evokes childhood memories.
The trio has interesting and ambitious plans for the future. Yet curiously enough, and unfortunately for us, none of them involve Park Slope. Bush, Talde, and Massoni aim to start construction on two new restaurant concepts in Jersey City in the near future: a second Talde and Carrino Provisions. The Jersey City Talde will be twice the size of the Park Slope flagship, and Carrino Provisions will be Italian-inspired—half market and half restaurant offering house-made pastas, cured meats, and a stellar cheese program.
And foodie bookworms rejoice! Dale Talde is also coming out with a coffee table-style cookbook to be published by Grand Central Publishing in 2015. Described as “austere, beautiful, and tame,” it will tell the story of Talde’s culinary journey in addition to sharing his celebrated recipes.
So hey—if you haven’t checked out one of Bush, Talde, and Massoni’s three delightful restaurants in the hood, you might as well on your next available Saturday night. Their food is not just about pleasure. It’s a commentary on American culture and hyphenated identities. Thus, while digesting on your walk home from the restaurant, you’ll likely spend some time talking about what the food you just ate symbolizes.
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