Brooklyn deserves to be celebrated for everything new that it’s bringing to the table, but it’s still the mom and pop stores that continue to make this city great. Our favorite finds in this issue strike the perfect balance of these philosophies vying for our attention. These businesses have been in the family for generations, yet have brought something new to our community.
A Few of My Favorite Things
More than a hundred years ago, Esteban Santos Prieto Casas arrived in the Dominican Republic with his new wife and settled on a sugar cane plantation. The plantation stayed in the family for three generations, until Daniel Prieto’s parents came to New York. As Daniel grew up, he explored other options—notably as an inventor and aerospace engineer —until he rediscovered his roots and Cacao Prieto was born. The bean-to-bar operation sources their cacao from the same family plantation, Coralina Farms, and produces small-batch chocolates and liquors in Red Hook, Brooklyn.
It starts with the chocolate machines—a streamlined Willy Wonka-esque production line, if Wonka had been raised in Brooklyn. Prieto’s background as an aerospace engineer surprisingly came in handy as he took to redesigning the standard machinery responsible for turning the hard little cacao beans into sinfully delicious chocolate bars and bonbons. The journey begins with the Vortex Roaster, where the beans are suspended on a bed of swirling hot air at a much higher temperature than standard roasters. This roasts the beans rapidly and evenly, and the higher temperature creates a more intense level of flavor. After this first process, the beans make their way to the winnower to separate the cacao nibs from their husks. While industrial winnowers often allow too many husk stowaways into the chocolate, Prieto’s Vortex Winnower uses centrifugal force to separate the parts by differentiating between the kinetic energies of the nibs and husks. If that’s too high-tech for you, never fear; the next step brings some vintage charm with their mélange from 1895, which grinds the nibs into a paste with stone rollers. Old Brooklyn meets New Brooklyn, indeed.
The intensive process yields nothing short of amazing results. Their selection of bars are simple, which allows the quality of the chocolate to shine. Besides their plain option, their 72 percent dark chocolate is mixed with almond and salt, hazelnut and raisin, pecan and sour cherry, pistachio and apricot, and cashew and cranberry. Their deliciousness is celebrated with the beautifully illustrated wrappers by Brooklyn artist, Sophie Blackall. Each of these flavors can also be found in bonbon form, along with several other enticing options like Orange and Bergamot, Fall Flower Honey, and Spiced Rum. Speaking of rum, what really sets Cacao Prieto apart is their liquor—the only spirits in the world distilled from cacao. Their hand-roasted cacao beans are distilled and aged in oak with organic cane sugar from their farm to create a rum and liqueur with a uniquely complex profile. Don’t worry about whipping up a cocktail with one of their products—Prieto claims that their distilling process enables the cacao to retain its antioxidants. Clearly, that means it’s healthy.
Visit their shop and factory at 218 Conover Street in Red Hook, or find their chocolates and liquors throughout the city.
Leske’s is Moving on Up
In 1961 when Hans Leske opened up Leske’s Bakery, Bay Ridge was home to a Scandinavian community. Quickly developing into the gold standard of the neighborhood, Leske’s later stood out with their unique offerings for baked goods as the area became more Italian. With a loyal clientele, Leske’s served the community until 2011 when, to much dismay, the shop shuttered their windows. All seemed lost until rumors started to circulate in early 2012 that they were reopening—the speculation soon confirmed by a sign appearing in the window saying “Coming Soon: Same recipes, same bakers, same Leske’s.” More than one thousand fans celebrated Leske’s return on the opening day, and less than a year later were treated to news that they were expanding. Earlier this year, Leske’s opened a second shop farther up the street at 588 Fifth Avenue to service their customers that had been making the trek from Park Slope, Prospect Heights, and beyond.
Over the years Leske’s had become known for Brooklyn standards, despite their international appeal. Their Black and Whites are some of the best around, with a perfect cakey foundation and a soft, thick layer of frosting that’s not teeth-achingly sweet. Donuts are another big draw, with a nice balance of lovingly made classics (try the jellies), and fun, modern flavors that aren’t as precious as the trendier offerings in town. But where Leske’s still shines is in their Scandinavian specialties, which separates them from the pack of Italian and French bakeries. Hoping to make the Danish the new It pastry, their versions are not to be missed, especially the Kringle, filled with raisins and ground almonds. Another favorite is the Wales Kringle—a cream puff-like offering with whipped cream and custard between puff pastry, topped with vanilla or chocolate glaze. The custard—which is also featured in éclairs and donuts, among others—is airier and more subtle than most. For a savory option try the Limpa bread, a Swedish rye made with molasses, anise, and orange peel. And unlike most of the competition, you’ll be amazed at how reasonable the prices are—not the other way around. Those delicious donuts? Most are less than two dollars. Danishes are typically two dollars or less, and even the more typically chichi pastries are around two or three dollars. The only downside is it makes it more difficult to practice some restraint.
The selection and quality of the treats themselves aren’t the only things that have helped Leske’s stay strong for all these years, though. Both locations strive to have that classic community-driven feel of your favorite neighborhood spot. Just look at the resurgence of their Free Cookie tradition as an example. Longtime customers, who were now bringing their children to Leske’s, would often reminisce about the free cookies they’d get on their visits as kids—a tradition going back all the way to Hans’s wife, Ella. Soon enough, Leske’s began their Free Cookie promise again, where every “pre-adult” gets a cookie just for coming in. For us old folks, other options include free coffee with a purchase between 5 a.m. and 7 a.m., up to 25 percent off for seniors, and the Kringler Klub, which offers discounts on everyday purchases and specials throughout the year. So whether you’ve been a lover of Leske’s for years and want to shorten your trip, or are a newcomer looking to see what all the fuss is about, treat yourself to a visit for something sweet.
Gelato for Grownups: For Kids
L’Albero dei Gelati’s popularity in Italy is apparently so huge that it gets described as “cultish.” With three stores in Italy, we New Yorkers will now be getting a taste with their first American outpost on Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue. We’ll start at the beginning: with their gelato. Passionate believers in fresh, organic ingredients, husband-and-wife team Monia Solighetto and Alessandro Trezza have some exciting options for gelato in store. Seasonal and carefully sourced ingredients will elevate simple flavors like pistachio, hazelnut, and strawberry to the highest level, but the most intriguing aspect of L’Ablero dei Gelati is their more unique flavors on tap. One level up are more comforting bets like Candied Cherries and Meringue, Pumpkin and Amaretto, and Mascarpone and Chocolate Chip. But where it really gets interesting are their experiments with savory flavors from vegetables, wines, cheeses, and more. Their Italian shops have offered everything from Radish to Smoked Salmon to Mushroom Risotto. The idea for these more outlandish takes on gelato is to pair them with everything else they have to offer. How about a scoop of Yellow Bell Pepper Gelato paired with a sharp slice of cheese?
L’Albero dei Gelati won’t just be your standard frozen treats shop. There will be beautifully crafted pastries, yes, but also panini (with homemade sourdough), wine, espresso, and cheese plates. Everything in the shop will follow the philosophy of appreciating the beauty of nature when it isn’t toyed with into submission. No artificial flavors or colors, additives, or preservatives allow the ingredients to shine. The menu will be ever-shifting with the seasons and allow for a wide range of clientele. For, while it may be sounding rather upscale up to this point, the hope is for L’Albero dei Gelati to be a family-friendly place.
Monia and Alessandro chose Park Slope specifically for its community-oriented atmosphere and strive to be a neighborhood place that everyone can enjoy. Monia is the second-generation gelato heir and moved to Brooklyn with her family for the opening of the shop. With a young child of their own, they knew it was important to create a welcoming environment for kids. (Park Slope tots may be refined, but I’m sure even their idea of getting ice cream doesn’t involve Robiola gelato.) Special features will include a corner of the shop where kids can play and draw, and kids of all ages will enjoy the backyard with a special garden table where the featured ingredients of the season will be growing. Keep an eye out for classes on making gelato, which will cover everything from what “seasonal ingredients” even means, to prepping the ingredients, and of course, testing the finished product. Overall, L’Albero dei Gelati manages to provide a near-complete representation of the neighborhood as a whole and should be able to offer up something to please everyone.
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