They say that one out of seven Americans can trace their roots to Brooklyn. As “America’s hometown,” the multicultural heritage defines the borough. To me, the center of culinary nostalgia may be Brighton Beach, with its blintzes and pierogies. For others, it may be the Italian bakeries and butchers of Carroll Gardens, the taquerias in Sunset Park, or the oxtail stew in Crown Heights. When you’re in Brooklyn, you can always go home again. Not only do these restaurants and shops celebrate where the people of Brooklyn have come from, but where they are going.
To Schlep No More
“I think it’s the smell that really draws people in,” Peter Shelsky says from behind the counter of his appetizing shop, Shelsky’s (251 Smith Street), in Carroll Gardens. “That sense of nostalgia hits them right when they walk through the door.” But, really, all five senses are transported back in time. The store looks like an old black-and-white photo come to life: glass jars of nuts, dried fruit, and penny candy by the window, halvah and rugelach under domed glass, trays of pickled herring, latkes, lox, and schmear, shelves filled with matzo meal and rye bread, a refrigerator with Dr. Brown’s and Cel-Ray. Shelsky — a New Yorker, born and raised — grew up with the same memories as his growing base of regular customers. He lived in the Upper East Side, but would accompany his grandmother to the Lower East Side for bialys and appetizing, and the Upper West Side for groceries at Zabar’s. As an adult in Brooklyn with a family of his own, he grew tired of having to schlep over the bridge to recreate the experience. After years of working in the food industry, he decided to open a place of his own.
The big draw at Shelsky’s is the lox, particularly the pastrami salmon, and the sandwiches it adorns. But, Shelsky considers his specialties to be the appetizing underdogs, like his whitefish salad and pickled herring. While the salmon may be smoked elsewhere, the salads and pickling are done in-house. Some of the baking is homemade as well, including the rugelach with a modern twist of unusual flavors like clementine or ginger. They also update the classics with their unique sandwiches. Take the Dr. Goldstein Special, for example: duck fat-laced chopped liver and apple horseradish sauce, served between two schmaltz-fried latkes. Or, there’s the Sweet and Smokey Blintz: lean kippered salmon, apples, red onions, and horseradish crème fraiche rolled in a crepe. Don’t worry, they have bagels and bialys too, from Kossar’s during the week or Davidvich on Shabbat. Try the Holy Mackerel, which is smoked peppered mackerel with cucumber salad and vegetable cream cheese.
It was important to Shelsky to help revive the tradition of Jewish foods in the wake of its near disappearance from the borough. This has always seemed like a strange phenomenon to me. After all, so much of New York City is even more quintessentially Jewish than Jerusalem. Shelsky attributes it to a few things. First, is the obvious change of the skyrocketing prices of living in Brooklyn, as well as the ingredients. But, he also notes that the people you would expect to support appetizing stores most are the least likely customers. “I’ve gotten complaints from the religious community about not being Kosher. They can’t eat here.” But, he bristles at the accusation that this disqualifies him as running a Jewish store. “I refuse to accept the idea that Jewish food begins and ends with what’s Kosher.” (This is true, but the day Katz’s started offering Reuben sandwiches was still a tragedy.) Shelsky continues, “Eastern European Jews brought this food to this city and this country. It’s what our ancestors ate. It’s our heritage. People connect with the food more than anything else. There’s this saying that captures the Jewish attitude about food perfectly: ‘They tried to kill us. We survived. Let’s eat.’ That’s what I care more about.” Amen.
Complimenting the Heart and Soul
If Brooklyn’s food scene is defined by its multiculturalism, then Kimchi Grill (766 Washington Avenue) perfectly encompasses this classic feature in a fresh direction. The restaurant, which opened in the spring at in Prospect Heights, serves up the unusual and intriguing fusion of Koren and Mexican cuisines, with a dash of Italian and Middle Eastern influences thrown into the mix. Food truck fiends will recognize this combo from the popular Kimchi Taco Truck, which has been a favorite since its arrival on the scene in March, 2011.
The plan was simple: Make Korean cuisine more accessible. Phillip Lee had been working in the restaurant business for years with different types of foods, but when he decided to break out on his own he knew that it would revolve around the dishes of his heritage. Korean food, it seemed, was difficult to approach for the average American audience, with the main exception of Korean barbecue. He thought back to his uncle, who owned one of the first Japanese restaurants in Long Island in the late 80s, and how that food began to become such a hit. Most of the patrons started out slowly, with California rolls and tempura, before they worked their way up to sushi or sashimi. He figured it would be best to take the same approach with Korean cuisine, making it a bit friendlier and more casual by combining it with more familiar dishes.
Lee knew that the foundation of his menu would be kimchi, which he calls “the heart and soul of Korean food.” (Kimchi comes in many different varieties depending on the season and the region, but is generally a combination of fresh, pickled, or fermented vegetables and meats with spices and condiments.) Knowing that the concept of kimchi was still foreign for most of his would-be customers, his dishes are mainly rooted in barbecue. When choosing which cuisine to experiment with, Mexican seemed like a natural fit. Both nationalities love their spice; the possibilities for combinations were endless, giving him a lot of room to work with toning down or amping up different flavors.
While Kimchi Grill does have the fan favorites from the truck, the menu has been greatly expanded to include dishes that require the space of a full kitchen. Lee worked with his chef, Mike Calderon, to create new dishes. They both drew on their childhood favorites, pinpointing the best part of their best dishes and finding room to grow. After a ton of trial and error, they’ve developed a menu that is a truly unique experience. Of course, there are the tacos, like the Korean BBQ Beef Short Rib (with red cabbage apple pear kimchi slaw), and the Korean Fried Chicken (tossed in blue agave nectar and ginger garlic Korean pepper sauce, with pickled daikon, queso blanco, and sesame seeds). You can get any of their tacos in a burrito, bowl, or ssam (lettuce wrap) as well.
But, where you can see Lee and Calderon really having fun is with their side dishes. The six current items are split between Korean and Mexican standards being given a twist with elements of the opposite cuisine. Popular Korean street foods, like rice gnocchi or arancini (crispy rice balls), are paired with queso blanco and quesa Oaxaca, respectively. The Kimchi Goat Cheese Quesadilla is one of the most elaborate dishes, with goat cheese, provolone, and sautéed kimchi in the tortilla, and fresh kimchi, pico de gallo, kimchi, chipotle aioli, and miso crema on top. The BBQ Nachos are another highlight, with marinated barbecue beef and pork with queso blanco, cheddar, black beans, kimchi, pico de gallo, and miso crema. The combinations of flavors and textures of each of these offerings are expertly thought out, and the ubiquitous kimchi really makes each dish with the addition of a delightful crispness and freshness. Despite kimchi’s reputation for heat, it tended to be what toned down the spice, and essential to balancing the flavors.
Keep an eye out throughout the Fall: Lee and Calderon are still hard at work, and the menu’s only going to get bigger.
Breaking Bread
Peter Endriss of Runner & Stone (285 Fifth Avenue) has been infatuated with food his whole life. As a little kid, he would hang out in the kitchen with his father while he prepared dinner, or prepped for parties. At 13, he began working in restaurants, and he knew it was what he loved to do. But, when it came to choosing a career path, he ended up as a civil engineer. “It wasn’t so much how I transitioned from being a civil engineer to a baker, but a question of what I was doing as a civil engineer in the first place. But everyone told me to pursue an academic career. They warned me about the hours of the food industry, and the difficulty of the job, so I tried something else.”
But, after 10 years as an engineer, he could no longer stand it. He left for Germany, where he worked in a bakery. His father was from Germany, and Endriss went there every year with him to visit his family. Every morning, his father would walk to the small town’s bakery to buy bread and pretzels for the day, and now, Endriss was learning to make them himself. From Germany, Endriss spent time in different bakeries and restaurants in New York, France, and Italy. After a few years, the entrepreneurial tradition of his family was too strong to ignore, and he decided to open up a place of his own.
Back in New York, Endriss teamed up with Chris Pizzulli (of Blue Ribbon) and came up with the concept for Runner & Stone, a neighborhood gathering place that will carry you from early morning to late at night. The day begins with a coffee shop and bakery. This is Endriss’ specialty. Using techniques he learned in Germany and France, he’ll offer a selection of breads, pastries, and pretzels. You may have seen these at Smorgasburg and the New Amsterdam Market. The almond croissants with seasonal fruits, walnut bread, and olive ciabatta were all smash hits. Liquid sourdough gives the breads a greater depth of flavor. Around lunch time, soup and sandwiches will be available, providing an outlet for their charcuterie that’s made in-house, including pastrami, lox, and pickled herring.
In the evening, the café will open up for a full dinner service, accompanied by a full bar. This is where Pizzulli steps up to the plate, with a menu mostly inspired by his Italian upbringing. The star of the show will be the homemade pasta, perfected by the combination of Pizzulli’s childhood memories and Endriss’ education in Italy. The details of the menu will change with the season, taking care to reflect what’s happening in the markets, but you can expect a big seafood presence and updates on traditional dishes. “We were really drawn to the old-school Italian feeling of the neighborhood, and we want to do our best to blend in and serve that community,” Endriss says. Runner & Stone will be opening late September.