He Who Controls the Spices

There are two prevailing theories on the best way to handle the Summer heat, and while some if us are gearing up for an expensive summer besides our window-AC unites, many are keen ti embrace the heat. Our review of Park Slope’s latest culinary triumph, Masalawala & Sons.

With Summer right around the corner, and our Spring cleaning (hopefully) behind us, we are all dusting off our air conditioners, and trying to guess when the weather will rise consistently into the 80’s and 90’s. Of Course there are two prevailing theories on the best way to handle the Summer heat, and while some of us are gearing up for an expensive summer besides our window-AC units, many are keen to embrace the heat. For those Summer-sun-seekers, Masalawala and Sons invites you on a culinary journey that not only tantalizes your taste buds but also harmonizes with the physiological cravings of the season. As those temperatures rise, I invite the adventure seekers among you to seek out those sunkissed flavors that spark the senses and ignite the palate.

Located on Park Slope’s 5th Ave, between Ginger’s Bar and Logan’s Run, Masalawala and Sons is a vivid and inviting culinary nest that takes diners on a nostalgic journey through the gastronomic elements of Kolkata, India. This prized eatery, the vision of restaurateur Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya, pays homage to Roni’s father, a 75-year-old immigrant from Kolkata, by recreating his favorite food memories with authenticity and passion.

Upon entering Masalawala and Sons, you are enveloped in a friendly and welcoming atmosphere which warmly sets the stage for the rest of the dining experience. The restaurant featured an intimate and colorful dining room, bathed in the familiar aromas of coriander, and cardamom. 

When we visited Masalawala and Sons, we chose to take advantage of the late spring weather, booking a table in their backyard. When we arrived we were escorted through the dining room, past the kitchen, and down a set of wooden stairs, where we were treated to an equally inviting covered backyard space, nestled between the secret yards of Park Slope’s ivy clad brownstone townhouses. 

Our server took our drink orders promptly, and advised us on the layout of the menu and the size of each dish.

We began our meal by indulging in the Dahi Vada, a delightful dish consisting of fermented lentil dumplings topped with sweet and savory yogurt, and spicy chili. The presentation is a pleasant surprise, resembling a deep dish cake with its layers of yogurt, cumin, and vibrant green chili sauce. The texture is more akin to a cake, than a dumpling, with a moist, fluffy, and crumbly texture almost akin to carrot cake. The flavors are notably rich, balancing the sweet and savory yogurt with the gentle and inviting heat of the chilis, they quickly marry with the cakelike dumpling, and make an excellent introduction to the flavor storm that Masalawal and Sons has in store.

Next we ordered the Macher Dim, another small plate featuring seasonal Bengali fish roe, kalajeera rice, egg yolk, ghee (clarified Butter). Served in a deep silver dish, we are surprised yet again by an unexpected presentation. The complex and layered morsel is a vivid bright yellow, almost custard-like at first appearance. Upon Cutting into it, we note a dense cornbread-like texture. There is a mild fishy flavor, not at all overpowering, but well balanced, offering a deep and wholesome oat-like finish. The subtle heat from the green chilies adds a delightful touch to the complexity of the dish.

At the same time that we were enjoying the Macher Dim, the Ripon Street Majja was brought to us with some ceremony. This is a dish that will leave a lasting impression. A generous presentation in a large deep silver bowl, it showcases bone marrow, paya, smoked chili, shaved egg, and a side of Pao buns. As the server spoons the marrow out of the bone, it sinks into the simmering deep red chili sauce, creating a tantalizing stew. The dish is undeniably spicy, and the heat builds as you eat, yet the flavors and spices remain discernible, providing a captivating experience that might just leave the hairs on your neck standing up.

When it comes to main courses, the Daab Chingri steals the spotlight. Presented in a young coconut shell, sealed with a bit of dough, this dish is truly a showstopper. As our server regails us on the origins of the dish, she opens the coconut, and stirs a hot and vivid yellow stew, scraping the young coconut meat off the sides of the vessel, and incorporating them into the prawn stew. Next, our server instructs us to utilize the tender meat in the prawn heads. This turns out to be fantastic advice, as while the prawn heads are a bit intimidating to disassemble, the succulent, soft and sweetly flavored meat in their heads turns out to be the best part of the whole meal. This dish is a must-try and a testament to the culinary prowess of Masalawala and Sons.

For those seeking an exquisite addition to their meal, the Macher Pulao is a perfect choice. Featuring seasonal Bengali fish paired with aged basmati rice and bhaja masala, the dish showcases the sublime flavors of the fish. Though bone-laden, the delicate fish meat is light, sweet, only slightly salty, more akin to shellfish in flavor, than to a white fish. It was something to be savored and enjoyed with patience, and it was the perfect way to gently close out our dining experience.

When the meal had concluded, my fellow diners and I were left to conclude that the quality and unique nature of the food at Masalawala and Sons is worthy of the hype, and the wait for a reservation.The truth of the matter is, I could go back there, order five completely different dishes, and probably write another article on that experience independent of the first. They have created something truly unique and in doing so, have invited their patrons to elevate their pallets, and to experience a deeper dimension of Indian cuisine and culture. 

This summer, if you are looking to embrace the heat of the season, and if you are fortunate enough to snag a coveted reservation, we hope you will let Masalawala and Sons treat you to their vision for Kolkata’s greatest culinary innovations.